We’ve see it on TV, watching Pro’s sit on the edge of their (already jammed forward) saddles and going low in order to be as aero (=fast) as possible. It is true that being “more aero” reduces your CdA (drag coefficient times frontal area) and with that wind resistance we experience when riding a bicycle. Rolling resistance and drivetrain friction only amount to a merely 15-25% of the force acting against a cyclist when riding at 20-25mph (on flat roads); while 75% – 85% is aerodynamic drag which slows us down. (Merkes, P. F. J., Menaspà, P., & Abbiss, C. R. (2019). Reducing aerodynamic drag by adopting a novel road-cycling sprint position. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 14(6), 733–738.) But, for the regular recreational rider or amateur bike racer, moving your saddle forward does not necessarily equal and increase in performance. And if it does, comfort often times takes a “backseat”.
Here are some of the Pros and Cons to consider when deciding to move your saddle Forward.
PROS:
Easier to hold an aerodynamic position. Moving the saddle forward opens up the hip angle when you’re low, so you can rotate the pelvis and hold a flatter back and lower torso with less strain. This is the main reason the trend is popular among both pros and amateurs, since aerodynamic drag is the dominant resistance at speed.
Better hip and lower back comfort when low. A forward saddle with higher bars, or a position with the hips more open, can reduce hip pinching and lower back fatigue for riders who struggle to stay in the drops or on the hoods for long periods.
Less reach stretch. Moving the saddle forward shortens the effective distance to the bars without changing the frame or stem. That can ease pressure on the shoulders, neck and arms for riders who feel stretched out.
More quad and cardio-friendly pedaling for some riders. Pedaling from a more forward position tends to favor the quadriceps and a higher cadence. Riders with strong quads, or those who feel their hamstrings and glutes tire early, may find it a better fit. It can also suit riders who spin rather than grind.
Better weight distribution for control. For many riders, a more forward center of mass improves front-wheel grip and steering feel in corners and during hard efforts. On climbs, it can help keep the front wheel planted on steep gradients, although traction at the rear can suffer on loose surfaces.
Gives the knee a more upright, stacked position. Some fitters find a slightly forward position reduces rotational demand at the knee for riders with certain alignments, because the leg is stacked more directly over the pedal. This is anecdotal and varies by rider.
Works with modern frame designs. Many current road frames are built with steeper seat angles and more aggressive geometry. A forward position pairs naturally with that, and with wider tires and disc brakes that make the front end more forgiving.
Useful for triathlon and time trial. In aero positions, a steep, forward seat angle opens the hip angle and lets the rider keep power while staying tucked as seen in professional & age-group triathlon or pursuit racing on the velodrome. This is the origin of the idea, and road riders are borrowing it.
Often goes with narrower bars and a lower torso, which together can add aerodynamic gains. Narrow hands reduce our frontal area. The savings can be meaningful, but the more extreme versions (36cm and less) of this have downsides and often can result in shoulder discomfort or neck tightness.
Who benefits most? The riders who benefit most tend to be those who prioritize aerodynamics, spin at higher cadences, have very good hip flexibility and core strength, and don’t have a history of front-of-knee pain. Riders who rely on glute-heavy power, ride mostly on steep or loose terrain (gravel), or have knee issues may do better in a neutral or slightly more rearward position.
CONS:
Knee loading. Moving the knee forward of the pedal spindle shifts load toward the front of the knee and the quadriceps. For most riders that’s fine or beneficial, but anyone with patellofemoral (front-of-knee) pain or a history of it may find it aggravates symptoms, especially at high power or low cadence.
Less hip extension and glute use. A saddle moved forward tends to emphasize the quads and may reduce the leverage and contribution of the glutes and hamstrings. Riders who rely on strong hip extension (big gear grinders, strong time triallists) and have strongly developed hamstring and glute muscles can feel less able to push, and quad-dominant riders can fatigue earlier on long efforts. How much this matters varies a lot by rider.
More weight on the hands. A forward saddle pushes your center of mass toward the front of the bike. If the handlebars aren’t raised or reach shortened to compensate, you can get hand numbness, wrist and shoulder fatigue, and neck strain. Raising the bars might be necessary to compensate for it.
Handling and traction changes. More weight on the front wheel can sharpen steering feel but may feel less stable on steep descents, and it can reduce rear-wheel traction on steep, loose climbs (more relevant for gravel and mountain biking than road). Combined with narrower bars, low-speed control and bike-handling confidence can drop for some riders.
Hip angle and flexibility. If you’re tight in the hip flexors, a forward, higher position can close the hip angle at the top of the pedal stroke and cause pinching or discomfort. This is a reason to pair position changes with mobility work. An change towards shorter crankarms may also be necessary for some riders.
Saddle pressure. Moving forward often changes how you sit on the saddle. Some riders end up with more pressure on soft tissue or need a different saddle tilt (more down) or shape.
Not ideal for Gravel. While having some more weight on the front wheel/tire when riding or racing Gravel is generally a good thing; having too little weight on the rear wheel can make it challenging when trying to ride uphill on loose and technical gravel terrain. It comes down to what type of riding or racing one does.
Economic considerations. Today, most bikes come with a “setback” seatpost (15-25mm) and moving your saddle forward by more than 1 or 2cm often requires the purchase of a “0 setback” seatpost since the saddle rails only allow so much forward movement.
How to try it
Move in small steps of a few millimetres, changing one variable at a time.
Recheck saddle height afterward, since it often needs adjusting (you will have to raise your saddle in order to keep the same saddle height)
Give each change a couple of weeks to settle.
Track power, cadence, comfort and any symptoms, and back off if you notice new knee pain, hand numbness or a loss of power.
For persistent discomfort or pain, we recommend contacting us re: a professional bike fit